darkblueocean：　　速度

　　高山攀登中，保护点的数量和质量当然都不及通常攀岩时的状况。原因不仅在于难以找到合适的保护点，而且时间上也不允许。浪费时间设置大量的保护可能导致不同的结果：本来你可以坐在帐篷里袖手欣赏午后的风暴，而现在只能钉在岩壁上任凭雷电在四周肆虐。

　　高山装备应该讲求效率，带一些岩石塞、机械塞和冰锥，必要的时候还需要冒险进行一段无保护攀登。如果你没有大量的保护就不能放心大胆的动弹，你就应该放弃攀登。

　　注意观察路线的方式。从快速的角度勾画攀登方式。如果路线上有挑战性的难点，看是否能从它旁边找一条容易的路线绕过去；如果有两段较短的路段，就把他合并成一个绳段；如果遇到放保护的地点，也可以将它作为器械攀登的固定点。“French-Free”技术（图1），就是很好的高山攀登的方式，利用器械克服难点。

　　速度意味着安全，但快速攀登和盲目冲动之间的界限也是很微妙的。每一段路线上都应该花时间刻意观察路线情况，设置稳固的保护点，观察天气的变化情况，并且考虑如何撤退。
　　上升

　　节省时间最有效的方法就是连续行进，减少停顿。举例来说，时不时停下来穿脱冰爪就会浪费大量的时间和力气，如果在冰岩混合地带能够安全的穿着冰爪行走，就可以获得很多便利。类似的，在长距离的岩石路线上，遇到少量冰面，快速刨出冰阶就比穿冰爪来得快。

　　可以通过顶绳保护联系混合路线攀登，穿着冰爪踩岩棱和石片，用冰镐钩岩棱和裂缝。这些训练都有助于提高登山的安全性和速度。并且应该牢记，随时准备使用你的冰镐：无论是在冰雪还是岩石线路上，冰镐都是手臂的延伸，非常适合于手臂不够长的支点。

　　高山攀登的时候需要携带装备，但并不总是背在身上。在宽烟囱裂缝里可以用一条长绳套吊在身体下面，在峭壁路线上，可能需要到达一个好的落脚点之后再把它们吊上来。

　　还可以采用同步攀登法。对于相对平缓或容易的路线，同步攀登法允许两名攀登者同时前进，是主要的方式。它采用移动保护：领攀者设置保护器材，跟攀者清除。当器材快用完的时候，领攀者设置一个稳定的锚点，保护跟攀者上来，两人交换装备或先锋位置（图4）。

　　在难度不均的路线上，运用同步攀登法时，可能需要将绳子的一半盘起来，用8字结和两个主锁与安全带相连。这样做可以使攀登者和搭档保持较短的距离，便于保持联络，减少绳子拖曳。如果先锋者停下来放置保护，或者将要对付一段难点，后面的人需要慢下来，避免绳子形成危险的绳圈。类似的，当跟攀者回收装备或者通过艰难路段时，前面的人也需要停下来或者快速设置保护以协助他通过这里。

　　即使在较容易的地方，也应该在攀登者和搭档之间保留一两件保护。Uly Wyss和Heinz Gonda的命运就是例子。1953年，这个瑞士-德国两人组在距离Eiger顶峰只有几米的地方出事，其中一个开始滑坠，由于两人连在一起，两人滑坠了1000多米直到山壁脚底。历史学家最终承认Wyss和Gonda完成了Eigerwand的第12次攀登，算是小小的安慰。
　　路线选择

　　高山路线和攀岩一样，也是寻找路线上的特殊部分或者薄弱环节，但是在高山上一切都变成了大尺度的。手指裂缝变成了十几米宽的岩沟，岩棱变成了宽阔的山脊。登山者决定最快和最安全的路线。典型而言，最好的路线就是阻碍最少的路线，但是，在不同的时候，外界条件和客观危险都是不断变化的。一条明显的角度较低的山谷可能会聚发冰崩，所以山脊可能是更好的选择。前人的固定路线绳可以指明攀登方向，但也应小心在意，避免重蹈覆辙。作者和搭档曾经在阿尔卑斯山的Walker Spur路线上花了数小时研究以前的固定绳，而绳子完全没用。在明确的路线上，没有运用自己的判断，拖延的代价是攀登失败。

　　更多情况下，选择路线的问题发生在没有以前的攀登活动的明显痕迹的情况下。为避免出错，可以使用望远镜观察路线、研究照片，在出发之前牢记路线情况。攀登的同时，尝试着将看到的情况理解清楚，并与头脑中的关于整座山峰的印象进行比对。
　　露宿

　　在一日攀登中携带露宿装备可以作为预防措施，由于附加的重量以及消除了熬夜的恐惧，通常都变成自我安慰的举动。超过一天的攀登过程中，一条露营袋、一条轻量的睡袋、以及化雪用的炉子都是必备的装备。不论你是平躺着、蜷成球，或者坐着过一整夜，最重要的是必须在身体和地面之间有一个隔离层。背包后背的泡沫垫是不错的坐垫，如果选择躺倒，可以用绳子垫在腿部下面。

　　在寒冷的天气或者积雪的地方，轻量的泡沫睡垫是值得携带的重量。当然，露宿过程中，保持温暖最可靠的办法是和搭档使劲挤在一起，不过大多数男性宁愿挨冻也很少这么做。

　　有些露营袋可以在刮风和下雨的时候作为紧急的庇护所。关键是要足够轻。（编译者注：救生铝膜也是不错的选择，体积小，重量轻，可以抵御一定的恶劣环境。
　　下降

　　除非你爬的是Chamonix的Aiguille du Midi，到了山顶之后可以享受一顿美餐外加法国淡啤酒，还来得及赶上下一班的下山缆车。否则，登顶意味着战斗刚刚完成了一半。也许剩下的另一半并不是最困难，当通常都是最危险的。你可能觉得疲劳，警惕性也放松了，下午的阳光使山谷里遍布松石，冰川和雪原的表面也变得松软。事故往往就是在一时的疏忽或者判断失误时发生的。

　　如果需要绳降，通盘检查每一个绳结和锚点的安全性。如果器材短缺，只能使用单点下降锚点，就需要做一个不受力的备份，然后让体重大的人携带背包先降下去（图5）。上面的人注意观察受力的锚点，如果一切正常，后面的人就可以放心的拆掉备份。不过，尽量还是多留一些装备吧。只要想想一旦出了问题，多少钱的装备都换不回后悔。选择绳降路线时，注意路线上锋利的岩棱和松石。最后一个人下降之前，确保抽绳时绳子不会卡住。降下来抽绳时，注意有可能被绳子带下来的松石。

　　在雪坡上，小心软而粘的雪沾到冰爪齿间，经过一段时间会变的硬而且滑。在这种雪况下，取下冰爪，用靴子踢雪下降可能会更安全些。要特别小心由于日照或气温上升作用于冰川引起的变化，假如你跟着早晨自己的脚印返回，变软的雪桥可能不能再承担你的体重。
　　天气

　　坏天气是登山者永远摆脱不开的梦魇。每次你开始攀登的时候，在高山上都存在遭遇风暴袭击的可能。应当知道当这个严酷的考验来临时如何对付，如果能够避开它就更好了。

　　高卷云，有时也被称为“马尾云”，是典型的风暴来临的前兆，通常都会再12-24小时之内。使用高度表观察气压变化也有助于辨别天气趋势。高气压通常意味着稳定的天气，气压上升或下降都会带来风和天气变化。低气压代表不稳定。当然，这里的低气压是指山区中相对变化。

　　雷电是高山的噩梦，直接挨上一下你立马就会给烤糊了。但是即使接触到附近的入地电流也会产生严重后果，可能会导致心跳停止、肌肉痉挛，甚至融化合成纤维的衣服导致烫伤。如果石头翁翁作响或者产生劈啪放电，意味着雷电即将来临。为了保护自己，应当选择尽可能平坦的地点，注意不要躲在山洞里或岩檐下，在那些地方电弧会把你烧成微波炉里的烤肉。坐在或者蜷缩在你的背包上，与地面绝缘开来。另外应该除去身上的金属物体，比如保护器材或者冰镐等等（当然也不是把它们扔下山），因为金属物体会集中电流烧伤身体。尽可能蜷缩身体，以减少电流可能穿过身体的距离。剩下的就只有祈祷了。
　　头脑的竞技

　　高山攀登是头脑的竞技，恐惧也充斥其中。山中充满了值得敬畏的东西，以及受伤乃至死亡的潜在可能性。熟练的技术和良好的装备当然能够将这些危险尽量减小，但是比任何技术和装备都重要的是，只有坚强和理性的头脑能够应付下来。那些伟大的登山家，比如Anderl Heckmair,Walter Bonatti,以及Riccardo Cassin都是活的例证。这些老家伙们用那些现在只能在谷仓中找到的简陋工具攀登了不可思议的路线。他们会觉得恐惧吗？一定会的。在冲顶的过程中？一定会的-当他们觉得危险太大，而且还有可能撤退，他们就会转身下撤。所有这些人今天还都活着。在山中，应该知道恐惧在何时是正常的、何时是不正常的，知道每种情况下如何应对，绝不允许恐惧发展成张皇失措或者蠢行，我们想要成为这样的人，我们只能依赖这样的人
　　The high life

　　Paring down and psyching up for alpine climbing

　　By David Pagel

　　The crux move has you momentarily stymied. You ease back down to a good rest to puzzle it out. Technically, this 15-foot headwall is hardly Mensa material, the holds are all visible -- in fact, you've free-climbed sequences like this a thousand times before. But this time the holds are wet with meltwater from a ribbon of black ice nestled like an adder in the recesses of a crack. Which brings up another distressing point -- your hands are numb. And the pack definitely isn't helping matters. That freeloading hump has you gripped in a full-nelson that's sapping your strength, limiting your flexibility,and throwing your sense of balance dangerously out of whack.

　　Suddenly, the solution to the crux is obvious: slam in a piece of gear, grab the sling, and yard up as if the hounds of hell are at your heels.

　　After all, these are the mountains, and the rules in the alpine arena can be distilled into just three words: Speed is life.

　　Graduation time

　　Successfully completing an alpine climb is like gaining a diploma. First you study and practice a number of diverse skills, then the time comes to put them all together and see if you've got what it takes to make it in the real world. In school you only dreamed of a class schedule like this: rock climbing, ice climbing, wilderness survival, meteorology, graduate-level psychology. Hopefully you didn't skip many classes, as graduating to the mountains is a serious reality check; the cushy days of bomber pro, T-shirt weather, and bumper belays are behind you.

　　Prerequisites: rock and ice

　　Before venturing into the mountains, you're going to have to develop some solid rock skills. How solid? Solid enough to move quickly, placing all your own gear, while wearing a pack. Put simply, if the top end of your trad climbing ability is 5.10 without a pack, think 5.6 or lower for the mountains. Humbling, perhaps, but ratings don't take into account loose or wet rock, verg　las, snow-packed ledges, or any of the other million-and-one unforeseen difficulties.

　　Ice is the glue that holds the alpine world together, and its consistency is constantly shifting and evolving from bullet-hard blue ice to sugar-like mash. You need to be familiar with murmounting all of its forms.

　　One way to fill any gaps in your experience is to seek out and toprope the kinds of ice you'd normally shun. Rotten, sun-chewed ice (but not something in danger of imminent collapse) can help you discover the possibilities and limitations of climbing with an adze, which gives you more shear strength in soft conditions. If you can find something like this kicked back at alow angle, try to get up it sans crampons by step-kicking; if the slushy surface layer isn't deep enough, try chopping some steps. Climb with just one tool. Almost any winter environment can be a training ground. If a guy like me, confined to the barren wastes of Minnesota, can learn how to self-arrest by sneaking onto ski hills after hours, or divine the basics of deadmen, pickets,and glacier travel by traversing frozen lakes and rivers, anyone can learn these skills.

　　Speed

　　Another argument for moderation: The quantity and quality of protection will almost certainly be poorer on an alpine climb than at the crags. It's not only that you can't find placements every few feet, you just don't have the time for them anyway. Futzing around putting in too much gear can mean the difference between sitting out the afternoon thunderstorm back in your tent, or being pinned to the wall wreathed by electric charges.

　　Your rack should be shaved back to an efficient selection of Stoppers, a few cams, and some ice screws, leaving you no choice but to run it out a little. If you're not able to move confidently and competently without overprotecting, you're in over your head.

　　Another way to pick up steam is to rethink the way you look at a pitch.

　　Scope it in terms of speed. Where once you looked for the challenging crux, now you see the easy way around; where once there might have been two short pitches you now envision a full ropelength; instead of four protection points you now see four quick aid possibilities. The "French-free" technique, where you pull on gear to overcome short difficulties, exemplifies the alpine mind-set (figure 1).

　　Speed is safety, but there is a fine line between moving quickly and rushing things. Take the time to make moves deliberately and to place solid gear, to look at the weather changes, and to consider your retreat options from every new pitch.The approachWhenever the 19th-century astronomer Dr. Jules-Cesar Janssen wanted to visit his famous observatory on the summit of Mont Blanc, he was carried by bearers or pulled up in a sled every step of the way. You're not so lucky.

　　You're going to need to know how to get around and survive in the wilderness with a map and compass. Much of your terrain may be off trail.Once you leave a hiking trail, bushwhacking, scree, snow slopes, and glacier travel are all par for the course. Glaciers in particular will require some specialized skills best learned from a guide or a patient mentor.

　　Negotiating a dry glacier -- one with bare, gray ice exposed on the surface -- is pretty straightforward because the dangers are all staring you in the face (although in a pre-dawn murk you may still have a hard time recognizing them). If there's any snow at all covering the surface, you're entering the alpine equivalent of a mine field. Only a fool ventures onto a snow-covered glacier without being roped up and well versed in crevasse rescue (see Technique, No. 176). Basic rules for glacier travel include: keeping slack out of the rope when moving together, and using a hip or boot-axe belay to cross any questionable snow bridges or to protect crevasse jumps (figure 2). Always have an axe in hand (not ski poles!) and know how to use it for 　self-arresting or anchoring. If someone does drop into a hole, prusik slings should be readily

available and extraction techniques should be second knowledge.

　　Hunting around for the start of your route in the dark or half-light of dawn can put you behind schedule before you've even begun. You should be intimate with your route, either from photographs or from studying it in person. Pay close attention to the topography around the base (gullies, boulders, snowfields, etc.) as well as to any distinctive features on the mountain itself(including crack systems, rock scars, and watermarks). Plan your approach to use the most obvious and recognizable landmarks. If you can scout some or all of it the evening before, so much the better.If a nasty bergschrund is involved, the last step of an alpine approach maybe the trickiest. A bergschrund is a yawning crevasse formed where a glacier or snowfield has melted or calved away from a rock or ice wall.

　　Sometimes,

　　such as beneath the North Face of the Grand Teton, starting the route low and to the side can eliminate the scary bergschrund crossing quite handily. More often, the only solution is to descend into the moat until it is possible to stem across and climb up the opposite side. When the slope is in your favor, a boot-axe belay from below the 'schrund is usually sufficient to safeguard the leader (figure 3). A bergschrund is no different than any other crevasse; undercut edges and/or false bottoms are always a possibility. It is also a natural funnel for falling rock and ice.The ascentThe best way to save time is to move steadily, without frequent breaks. For example, stopping to constantly put on and take off crampons wastes a lot of time and energy. If you can move securely when ice turns to rock without having to remove your crampons you'll enjoy a huge advantage. Similarly, if you can quickly chop a few steps to pass the odd icy spot amidst a lot of rock climbing without resorting to crampons, you'll be ahead of the game. Practice mixed climbing on toprope, placing crampons on rock ledges and nubbins, using ice tools to hook ledges and cracks. The training will reward you with security and speed in the mountains. And don't forget to improvise with your ice tools: whether on ice or rock an ice axe is a valuable extensionof your hands, and works wonderfully for hooking that just-out-of-reach piton.Climbing with a pack is a fact of life in the alpine world, but you don't need to wear it all the time. In tight chimneys you can hang the pack beneath you on a long sling, and on crux pitches you may need to leave it behind and haul it up after reaching a good stance.

　　You'll also be simul-climbing. Primarily a technique for covering moderate or easy ground quickly, simul -climbing is more than just both climbers moving at the same time. It is a running belay: the leader still puts in gear, the second takes it out. When the rack is almost used up, the leader sets an anchor, brings up the second, and they either re-rack or switch places

　　(figure 4).

　　When simul-climbing on tricky terrain you may need to coil up half of the rope and tie into your harness with a figure-8-on-a-bight and two locking biners. That way you and your partner can stay within earshot and reduce rope drag. If the leader is placing gear or coming up against steeper terrain, the second may have to slow down to keep a dangerous loop of rope from

　　forming.Similarly, when the second is taking out gear or negotiating a bit of hard ground, the leader may have to pause a moment or establish a quick belay to protect his partner up those few moves before climbing on.

　　Even on easy ground, keep a piece or two of protection between you and yourpartner -- consider the fate of Uly Wyss and Heinz Gonda. The Swiss-German duo were only a few feet short of the summit of the Eiger in 1953 when one or the other began to slide. Roped together, they both fell nearly a mile back down to the base of the wall. Historians eventually credited Wyss and Gonda with the 12th ascent of the Eigerwand (as well the first complete descent).

　　Small consolation.RoutefindingAlpine routes, like rock climbs, link distinctive features and weaknesses, but in the mountains everything is on a massive scale -- a finger-lock becomes a 50-foot-wide couloir, an "outside edge" translates into a broadridge. It's up to the alpinist to decide the fastest and safest route up or along these features. Typically, the best line will be the path of least resistance; however, conditions and objective dangers may dictate different alternatives at different times. An obvious low-angle gully may be swept by icefall, so you might prefer the ridge to its right. Fixed gear can be an indication of where others have gone, but beware of red herrings. My partner and I once wasted hours on the Alps' Walker Spur dicking around investigating pin lines that led nowhere, instead of trusting our instincts for the obvious line. The delay cost us the climb.More often, routefinding problems occur when there is no evidence of previous climbing activity. To avoid error, scrutinize the route through binoculars, study photographs, or memorize route descriptions prior to starting up. Try to interpret what you see while climbing and fit the information into a mental image of the entire mountain.

　　Bivouacs

　　Lugging bivouac gear along as a precautionary measure on a day climb is planning for defeat, and because of the extra weight and diminished fear of being benighted, it often becomes a self-fulfilling act. On climbs where you plan to spend at least one night out, a bivy sack, a light sleeping bag, and astove for melting snow are necessary burdens. Whether you end up lying flat, twisted in a ball, or perched upright for the night, the important thing is to get some insulation between you and ground. The back-length foam pad from a pack is great for sitting on. When lying down, you can use a pile of ropes to cushion the area beneath your legs.

　　On cold or snowy routes, a light foam sleeping pad can be worth the extra weight. Of course, the surest way to stay warm during a bivouac -- although most male climbers would rather endure a slow, free zing death than contemplate it -- is to take turns spooning with your partner.

　　MPI Outdoor Safety Products makes a 3-ounce bivy sack that can act as an emergency shelter from wind and rain; it's light enough to be worth bringing on an exposed mountain route (see Just Out, p. 148).

　　The descent

　　Unless you've just climbed the Aiguille du Midi above Chamonix, after which you'll have time to grab a hot dog and a French lager before catching the next cable car down, reaching the summit means half the battle still remains.Perhaps it is not the most difficult half, but often it becomes the most dangerous. You're tired, your mental guard is down, the afternoon sun is cutting loose salvos of stonefall into every gully, and the surfaces of the glaciers and snowfields have turned to mush. An accident is just one inattentive moment or lapse in judgement away.

　　If rappels are necessary, check every knot and anchor point thoroughly for its security. If you're low on gear and forced to use a single-point anchor,try to install an unweighted safety backup, then send the big guy down first (figure 5). If everything seems safe, the second person may feel comfortable removing the backup. But leave extra gear when you can! It is astounding how reluctant climbers are to abandon a $50 cam in favor of a rusty fixed pin that could cost them everything. When setting the ropes down the rappel line, look out for sharp edges and loose blocks. Before the second person raps down, make sure the ropes will pull freely. When you do pull them, watch out for rocks that are easily dislodged by the falling ropes.

　　On snowslopes, beware of soft, sticky snow that balls up between crampon points, transforming them into roller skates in a matter of seconds. In these conditions, it may be safer to remove crampons and kick steps down. Be especially wary of the effects that any sun or warming may have had on glaciers. Following your own footprints from earlier in the day is no assurance that some newly softened snow bridge isn't waiting to gobble you up. 发布于 2018-08-09 11:41:58

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