俺是悍匪：　　As I started climbing it was as if something took over that was beyond conscious thought. My hands and feet located holds like they had minds of their own, and each move flowed into the next. Although I had visited this wall hundreds of times, it was easier to traverse than ever before."

　　“当我开始攀登的时候，似乎有什么意识之外的东西开始接手。手和脚就像自有意识般地放到适当的位置，每个动作都流畅地接续到下个动作。尽管我已经来到这面岩墙好几百次了，这次的横渡却比之前任何一次都轻松。”

　　Perhaps you can recall a time when everything just "clicked," and you were totally absorbed in the climbing. If so, you have experienced one of the greatest "highs" of sports: the flow state, often described as "being in the zone." Those who have been there describe an almost mystical experience that results in, among other things, increased confidence, heightened awareness, total concentration, and near-effortless movement. The following tips will help you experience flow more often and with greater intensity every time you touch rock.

　　也许你能想起某次当所有事情都很顺，而你全神贯注于攀登的经验。如果这样，那么你就经历了攀登中最棒的经验：流畅的状态，通常也称为“进入状况”。经历过的人描述这种近乎神奇的经验会带来自信心增强、意识力提升、注意力完全集中、以及几乎不费力的动作。下列的提示能帮助你更常体验到流畅的感觉，并且使你在每次接触岩壁时更加专注。
　　Seek a challenge-skill balance. This is the golden rule of flow. If your hardest route is 5.10a, spending all day attempting a 5.12 will only result in frustration. Conversely, you'll likely get bored climbing a 5.6. Instead, seek routes that are both challenging and attainable. For example, you might best experience flow while climbing a 5.9.

　　寻求技巧与挑战性之间的平衡。这是流畅度的黄金准则。如果你最难的路线是5.10a，那么即使花费一整天去尝试5.12也只会带来挫败。反之，爬个5.6又会让你觉得无聊。因此，请找些既有挑战性又有能力完成的路线。例如在爬5.9的时候可能让你觉得爬起来最顺畅。

　　Set achievable, process-orientated goals. Process-orientated goals stem from the activity itself, rather than external factors. The goal of executing a perfect layback is more conducive to flow than wanting to burn off your partner or impress a spectator. Achievable goals are in your direct control. "Not grabbing the quickdraw in the middle of that scary runout" is achievable, whereas "sending the route this try" is not.

　　以过程为取向，订立可达成的目标。以过程为取向的目标起源于你所从事的活动本身，而非来自于外在的因素。完成一个完美的layback比企图吓死确保者或吸引观众来得有意义。可达成的目标则是由自己直接掌握。“在中途又没力又恐怖的时候也不要拉快扣”是可达到的目标，但是“这次就要完攀这条路线”就不尽然了。

　　Have a pre-climb routine. Such routines have been shown to improve the performances of elite athletes. They give a sense of control, channel attention to the task at hand, and free the mind from extraneous thoughts and worries. A climber's routine might involve a three-minute examination of the route, followed by tying in, chalking his hands, and then reciting a meaningful key word, such as "focus." Your routine must suit your needs, and will only be effective when you have practiced it until it becomes automatic.

　　培养一项好的攀登习惯。这些习惯曾经使一些最优秀的运动家有更好的表现。这套程序和习惯能帮助你拥有控制力、将注意力灌注至手的动作、并且摆脱外在无谓的胡思乱想和忧虑。一项攀岩者的攀登习惯可能包含三分钟的路线观察，接着绑绳子，抓粉，然后告诉自己一个有用的字，例如“专注”。这个习惯必须符合个人所需，而且只有当你已经练习到习惯成自然的时候才能发挥它的效用。

　　Promote positive self-talk. Flow is a highly focused state. Our minds, however, have a tendency to drift from this focus, diverting to irrelevant or even negative thoughts. When this happens try refocusing on a key word or image (e.g. "stop," seeing the color red, or even picturing a stop sign). With practice this can serve as a trigger to halt the unproductive thoughts and get you back into the groove.

　　重视建设性的自我对话。流畅的攀登是一种高度专注的状态。然而我们的精神却很容易从专注的状态转移到不重要的事情，或甚至产生负面思考。当这种情况发生的时候，请试着重新把注意力放到一个关键字或影像上（例如“停！”、看看红色的东西、甚或想像一个停止标志）。经过练习之后，这项做法会成为中止无建设性思考的动力，并且让你重新回复最佳状态。

　　Visualize success. Close your eyes and simply imagine yourself flowing up a climb. You might picture an imaginary climb, such as a perfect hand crack, or the moves on a specific route. Many climbers already use this technique, often called "visualization," but not in a systematic fashion. One key component of visualization is "vividness" -- try to make your images as real as possible, using all of your senses to picture the bright colors of clothing, the rough texture of rock, the wild swing as you hold that dyno. Another is discipline; visualization is a learned skill, so regular practice is important. Do several sessions a week, devoting five or 10 minutes to each session.

　　想像成功。闭上眼睛，只想像自己爬得很流畅的样子。或许你能够勾勒一次假想的攀登，像是一个完美的手裂隙，或是在某条路线上移动。很多攀岩者都使用这项称为“心像技巧”的方法，，但使用的方式却并非很有系统。心像技巧的一项要素是“逼真”──让自己的想像尽可能像真的；用全副精神想像衣服明亮的颜色、岩石粗糙的质感、以及dyno时剧烈的摆荡。另一项要素则是锻链；心像技巧是一种深奥的技巧，因此规律性地做有系统的练习很重要。每星期可做几次练习，每次练习花费5或10分钟。

　　Climbing well is a mind game. How else can you explain those magical days when everything feels easy?

　　攀岩是一场心智的游戏。否则该如何解释那些每件事都似乎很轻松的奇妙日子？

转载自台湾梅竹岩馆
張忠恕、鄭靜紋編譯 发布于 2018-08-07 10:48:27

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