攀冰提高：陡峭冰壁攀爬技巧（译文）（全文完）

2025-04-25 23:18:30

dol528phin：

Placing CramponsAs in rock climbing, good footwork is the key to success in ice climbing. The more effective you are with your feet the more you will reduce the load on your arms thereby preserving the energy in your arms.You can use your crampons in several different ways. You can kick the points into the ice such that they bite securely or you can place them on any edges, pockets etc in the ice. Similar to how you would place your rock shoes on rock edges.When placing your points into the ice two principles are particularly worth considering:Your body positioning (Centre of Mass) directly affects the load that is transmitted down through your legs and onto the front points.LOOK at where you are placing your front points.To illustrate the importance of your body positioning try this little exercise (with or without crampons. If using crampons it works well if you can place the points in the ice on a short steep step just of the ground. If need be use your axes to give you a couple of handholds).Stand with your feet shoulder width apart and your eyes closed.Now relax your hips such that your bum sort of, well, sags. Where do you feel your weight on your feet/rails of your crampons?Again keep the same position (feet shoulder width apart) and this time slightly bend your knees (i.e. just relax your legs) and clench your butt cheeks as though you had a pound coin between them (this should pull your pelvis forward slightly). Where do you feel your weight on your feet/rails of your crampons?What you should have felt in the first exercise with your bum err..sagging, is your weight towards the back of your feet/heels. In the second exercise where you tighten up your glutes and pull your hips forward whilst relaxing your knees, you should have felt the weight towards the ball of your feet/toes.After placing your front points in the ice adopting that knees relaxed, butt cheeks clenched position, hips forward you will find that your body weight helps push the points into the ice and assists in keeping them located. Effectively what you are doing is 'balancing' your weight towards the front of your crampons. When moving upwards this weight transfer onto the front points of your crampons is crucial to effective footwork.Looking down at your front points allows you to see where you are placing your front points and allows you to make best use of any surface irregularities. It also pushes your bum out allowing your legs to bend and lift without bashing the ice. Although this may seem a no-brainer it is surprising how many climbers tend not to look at their feet when placing their crampons, instead drag their feet up and blindly kick the front points in. Top tip - when placing your crampons make sure you eyeball them – and keep eyeballing them until you are happy with their placement.When it comes to placing your crampons, bearing in mind the principals outlined above – body positioning and eyeballing your crampons - you have two main options. You can kick the crampon points into the ice or place them (much as you would do if placing your rock shoes when rock climbing) on any irregularities, edges or hollows on the ice.Kicking your points in – this technique generally works best when there are very few features to use i.e. the ice is a uniform 'sheet'. To effectively kick your front points securely into the ice ensure that you first eyeball where they are going to go. Lift up your leg slightly, bend your knee whilst slightly raising your toes, then kick the points into place using a positive kick. What's a positive kick? You need to use enough power behind the kick to drive the points into the ice but not too much power you shatter the ice, and enough power that your points don't do much more than tickle the ice. When the front points have bitten into the ice positively weight the points. Repeat the process for the other leg.The key to avoiding the front points shearing as you weight the points whilst stepping up is keeping your heels level. Avoid the temptation to climb on your toes (rock climbers find this challenging to do as they tend to climb on tip toe on rock). If your front points keep shearing out try making a conscious effort to drop your heels more as you weight your crampon points. Dropping your heels slightly also helps the secondary points engage the ice more effectively creating a nice stable platform to weight. You do not need the points to be overdriven into the ice. You only need to have a small fraction of your front points placed into the ice and then balance your weight over the points using your centre of mass.Placing your points – this works well if the ice is very featured. Here just think as though you were rock climbing. Again eyeball where you want to place your crampons before making any move. You are looking for any sort of feature that you can place your crampons on. You may have choices between using the front points on a small edge or pocket, or you may hook the secondary points over protruding feature (more technical crampons are specifically designed to allow this to happen and have secondary points that are V shaped allowing the gap between them to securely hook over such ice features.Efficient footwork on ice does rely on you making effective use of either or both of these core techniques. Time spent practising using your crampons on ice (on a top rope) is time well spent honing your footwork.
使用冰爪

和攀岩一样，好的脚法是成功攀冰的关键。脚法运用得越有效，就越能减轻攀爬过程中胳膊的负担，从而节省臂力。
冰爪的运用有很多不同的方法。你可以将冰爪前齿踢入冰壁，这样前齿就咬合稳当了，或者踩在冰壁边沿，或者踩在冰洞中，就像攀岩的时候用攀岩鞋踩岩石边沿一样。
当你将前齿踢入冰壁时有两点要特别注意：你身体的重心会直接影响到从腿传导下去，最终施加在冰爪前齿的力量；看好冰爪前齿准备踢入的地方。为了说明身体重心的重要性，我们先来做个小测试。（可以穿冰爪，也可以不穿冰爪。如果穿冰爪做这个练习，你可以将冰爪前齿踢入地面上短陡的冰阶上。如有需要，还可以使用两只冰镐作为把手）。
两脚开立，与肩同宽，闭上双眼。放松屁股，呃，让臀部下垂。试着感觉你的体重落在脚的什么位置上？或者冰爪的哪个齿上？
保持同样的姿势（双脚与肩同宽），但双膝微曲（也就是放松你的双腿），收紧屁股蛋，就好在屁股蛋中间夹加了一枚硬币（这时你的盆骨也应该会略微前送）。再感觉一下你的体重落在了脚的什么位置上？或者冰爪的哪个齿上？
在第一个臀部下垂姿势的练习中你感觉到了什么？是不是你的体重都落在了脚的后半部分或脚跟上。而在第二个收紧屁股向前送胯放松膝盖的练习中，你感觉到的是你的体重落在了你的前脚掌或者是脚尖位置。
因此，在你将冰爪前齿踢入冰面后，你可以放松双膝，收紧臀部，向前送胯，你将会发现你的体重在给你的前齿施压，帮助了冰爪的稳定。实际上，你所做的这个就是在将你的体重均分在你的冰爪前部。当你向上攀爬的时候，这一将体重转移到冰爪前齿的要点，就是脚法好坏的决定性因素。
注意向下观察你的冰爪前齿，这样你就可以看到你的冰爪踢在哪里，并更好地利用各种不形态的冰面。这样还促使你在攀冰的时候向外撅屁股，屈腿上攀，而不是猛力砸冰。尽管这看起来是一件很容易的事儿，但你会惊讶地发现很多攀冰者都在踢冰爪的时候不看脚点，而只是拖着自己的脚在冰上用前齿乱踢。首要建议——踢冰爪的时候，一定要死盯着冰爪——而且要一直盯着，直到你非常满意他们的落点为止。
当你使用冰爪的时候，一定要切记上面提到的两个原则——身体站位和紧盯冰爪。你可以将冰爪前齿踢入冰面，或者像攀岩时用攀岩鞋那样，利用不同形态的冰面将冰爪踩在冰壁的边沿或冰洞里。
踢冰——这个技巧一般在缺少其他形态的“光板儿”冰壁上更为好用。为了能够更有效地将前齿稳稳踢入，一定要确保：第一，死盯着冰爪要踢入的位置。第二，略微抬腿，屈膝，同时微微翘起脚尖，然后用前齿给冰壁稳当一踢。什么是稳当一踢？你即要使出足够的劲将冰爪踢入冰壁，又不能使太大的劲儿踢碎冰壁，更不能像给冰壁挠痒痒一样不用劲儿。而当冰爪前齿稳当地咬合入冰时，你就可以把体重转移到前齿上了。另一只脚再重复同样的流程。
在你向上蹬起并给前齿施加重量时，为了防止前齿脱出，最好要保持脚跟的水平位置。也要避免用脚尖攀冰（攀岩者会因为攀岩时总用脚尖踩点而在这方面感到不适）。如果你的冰爪前齿还是一直往外脱出，那你就要有意识地再让脚跟沉一些，通过体重给冰爪前齿施力。略微沉脚跟还可以让你的第二排钩齿咬合入冰，更有效地形成稳定的支撑。冰爪前齿并不需要过度插入冰面。你只需要通过将冰爪前齿插入冰面来增加一点摩擦力，然后再利用身体重心将体重均衡地落在两个前齿上即可。
踩冰——如果冰壁形态很多样，不是“光板儿”，就可以用冰爪踩踏了。你只要想着是在攀岩就可以了。再次强调，任何移动前，都要盯着你冰爪将要踩放的位置。你的眼睛也要四下寻找任何可以踩放冰爪的地方。你可以选择用冰爪前齿来踩冰壁的小边沿或冰洞，也可以选择用第二排钩齿来钩挂突出冰壁的地方。（很多技术型冰爪的第二排钩齿都具有V字形钩齿这样特殊的设计，它可以让冰爪钩齿之间的缺口稳定地钩挂在具备这种可钩挂形态的冰壁上）
攀冰过程中，给力的脚法依赖于有效地利用以上这两项技巧。通过顶绳在冰壁上不断练习使用你的冰爪，就是在不断磨砺你的脚法。
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Placing Ice ToolsOn ice climbs your ice tools serve several functions. Their main one is to act as 'handles' allowing you to maintain your balance as you move your feet up. One of the mistakes climbers make with their tools is rather than moving their weight up by using their legs, they over grip their tools and pull their weight up. This only works for so long before your forearms burn and your shoulders feel like they are going to pop!Another function your tools serve is as 'runners' when leading. If you are using leashes then you are effectively attached to your tools. With well fitted wrist loops and well placed tools you are effectively held in place – at least enough to guard against a crampon popping off. With the increasing popularity of climbing leashless i.e. not being attached to your tools, you are not as attached to your tools as you are with leashes (although many climbers may choose to attach their tools to themselves with umbilical cords so technically are 'attached' to their tools). That consideration aside it is still worth thinking of your tool placements as 'solid handholds' (think of the difference between pulling on solid rock handholds and rattly loose holds when rock climbing – which would you rather be pulling on?). So when placing tools we are looking at achieving the most efficient (in terms of effort and energy) and bomb proof placements. Making bomber placements or 'sticks' is key to maintaining both your mental and physical health when leading an ice climb.
Whether you climb leashless or leashed always remember to periodically shake out. Remember your arms if you hold them above your head for long enough will get tired – never mind when they are also involved in placing ice tools. So shake out!Top Tips for Placing Ice ToolsWith most curved shafted balanced ice tools you will find that placing your tools does not involve a great deal of power. Instead the emphasis is on precise technique with minimum effort. Concentrating all your power into a combined precision swing and wrist flick - a very similar action to that used in throwing a dart. In fact too much power can lead you to overdriving the picks or causing the ice to smash. The following section breaks down the process of placing your tools to give a precision placement.Ice tool grip
– how you grip your axe is a key but often overlooked component of swinging your ice tools. You want a firm but relaxed grip with the thumb of your hand lined up on the shaft of the axe. This thumb placement allows you to more precisely direct the axe when you swing it.Choose your spot
– look to where you want to place the tool. To narrow down the target area reach up with the arm holding the tool. Ideally you are looking to place your tools in a beachball sized area above your head, or slightly offset, in relation to your centre of mass i.e. your belly button. Only reach up with the arm holding the tool until your arm is just slightly bent rather than fully straight (this will allow you enough reach to remove the tool if it turns out to not be a good placement). Additionally check out the ice. Look for any previous placements, concavities in the ice (where snow collects is a good indication) etc where your placements are less likely to shatter the ice. When climbing brittle cold ice this makes your life far easier and less stressful. Avoid placing your tools on the same horizontal plane and/or close to each other. Instead look to stagger your placements one above the other (in the beachball sized target and slightly offset).X Marks the spot
– After identifying the sweet spot to place your tools, mark the exact spot – the X - you want to place the pick by gently touching your pick against the ice. Keep your eyes focussed on this very spot as you bring the tool back ready to swing and place it into the ice.Swing and flick
– keeping your eyes focussed on your target X bring your ice tool back. Keep looking at the X. Using the same motion as throwing a dart bring your hand forward and just as your arm straightens flick your wrist (make this last action 'snappy'). This flick of the wrist will bring the head of the tool forward at such an angle that the pick of your axe should make contact with the ice at the correct angle and increase your chances of a first time placement. A key element in developing a good swing is keeping your shoulder, elbow, wrist and ice tool in line – so initiate the swing from your shoulder. Slightly twisting your hip to face into the swinging arm will help maintain this line.Assess the placement
– as the axe makes contact with the ice you will get audio, visual and kinaesthetic feedback as to how good the placement is. With a perfect placement the sound of the pick going into the ice will be a satisfying 'thunk', you will see (and feel) the shaft of the axe vibrate (similar to the arrows in the Strongbow advert!) and you will feel this vibration gradually dampen down through the shaft of the axe. If the placement is not a good one remove the axe (by wiggling the pick up and down rather than sideways – you run the risk of breaking the pick otherwise) and repeat the above process. Sometimes placing the pick in the same spot after dislodging the rubbish surface ice from your previous placement achieves a bomber placement on the second or sometimes third blow. Use your common-sense here – if you are hitting rock or the ice is hollow then no amount of hitting your pick into the same spot is going to improve matters!Test the placement
– give the placement a test by semi-weighting it but at the same time be prepared that it might fail. Experienced ice climbers can assess most placements by 'feel' and have the confidence, based on experience of assessing many ice tool sticks, to trust the placement and commit to it straight off. If you are not sure or have yet to develop the confidence in assessing your placements then there is no harm in pull testing every placement – especially when you are leading. After testing you can now trust the placement.Forget and move
– when you are satisfied with the placement forget about it and concentrate on either the next placement or moving up on what are now bomber placements.So when placing your tools remember this process:Look; Place; Test; Trust; Move.
使用冰镐在攀冰的时候，你的冰镐扮演着多重角色。主要角色就是充当”把手“，可以使你在向上攀登的时候保持平衡。一个攀冰者经常犯的错误就是起身时过于依赖拉冰镐做引体向上，而不是通过双脚蹬起。而一旦小臂酸胀肩膀无力，这招儿就不好使了。
冰镐的另一个作用就是在先锋攀登的时候作为“快挂”。如果你使用腕带，那么你就和你的冰镐建立了有效的连接。在使用了合适的腕带，且打镐点也非常稳固的情况下，你就固定了自己的位置——至少保证你的冰爪不会蹬空。但随着越来越多的攀冰者不带腕带，你就无法通过腕带和冰镐连在一起了（尽管有很多攀冰者选择用脐带连接冰镐）。撇开这个不说，你仍然可以把打入冰中的冰镐想象成为一个“固定手点”，（试想在攀岩的时候抓到一个稳固手点和一个松动手点的区别，你会抓哪个？）所以，当你打镐的时候，你一定要找一个最有效，最结实的地方。而在先锋攀登时，稳固的入镐点则是保证精神和身体都健康松弛的关键。
无论你是否使用腕带都要记住时不时地甩手。试想举起手臂在高过头顶的位置一会儿，胳膊就会感觉累了，更何况手中还要握着冰镐。所以一定要甩手！
打镐时的小建议当使用那种镐身弧度很大的冰镐时，你会发现打镐不需要特别用力，而更强调用最小的力气，更精准地打稿。集中全部力量付诸精确地挥镐和抖腕，就像投飞镖时候的动作。而如果使用太大的力气则镐尖受力过度或导致冰壁粉碎。以下小节将分步介绍如何精准打镐。
冰镐抓握——如何抓握冰镐是挥镐的关键，但却经常被忽略。你需要一种既牢固又放松的抓握方法：大拇指沿冰镐手柄向前抓握。挥镐的时候，大拇指这样抓握可以使你更精确地作用于冰镐。
选点——先选看好哪里是你想打入的点。通过将冰镐举起缩小打镐的范围。理想情况下，你应该在头顶或略微偏一点的地方寻找一块沙滩球大小的面积作为打镐目标范围，具体的位置与你的重心位置有关，说白了就是你的肚脐的位置。举起冰镐到胳膊微弯，不要全伸直（这是以防如果这个点入冰后不够理想，胳膊还可以向上抬起，把冰镐取出来）。此外，再查看冰壁。寻找之前打过镐的点，或冰面上的凹点（有存雪就是个好的暗示），在这样的凹点打镐不容易把冰壁敲碎。当你攀登又脆又冷的冰时，这样做会让你的攀冰变得更加容易，感到的压力更小。要避免把两只冰镐打在同一水平面上或者离得太近，但可以交替上下选择打镐位置（依然以沙滩球大小面积为目标）。标记打镐点——一旦选取好准备打镐的地方，就标记出确切的入镐点——标记个X——你需要将镐头轻轻打入其中。当你挥镐准备打搞入冰时，你的眼睛要一直盯着这个点。
挥镐和抖腕——眼睛直视刚刚订好的目标点，抽回冰镐。继续直视目标点。然后用和投飞镖一样的动作把手臂向前甩，正当你的胳膊快要伸直的时候抖动手腕（抖手腕的动作要做得干脆利落）。抖腕可以使镐头在向前挥动的时候形成特定的正确角度，而这个角度会增大一镐入冰的几率。挥镐的一个关键就是要保持你的肩、肘、腕、镐在同一条直线上，由肩膀开始发力。挥镐时，略微将屁股转向挥镐的手臂能帮助保持四点成一线。
评估入镐——在冰镐与冰面接触的时候，你可以从听到的声音、看到的画面和肌肉的感觉来判断打入的镐是不是好镐。如果是好镐，镐尖打入冰面时，会发出非常令人心安的“砰”声，同时，你也能看到、感觉到镐柄的震动（就像是Strongbow啤酒广告中的弓箭一样！），然后你会感到震动在镐柄和镐尖上逐渐消逝。如果不是好镐，那就要把镐拔出来重复上面的步骤再做一遍（拔镐时要上下晃动镐尖，不要左右晃，不然镐尖就可能被扭坏）。有时候，在清理了表面的碎冰后，还可以在相同的地方打入第二镐或者第三镐以达到稳固的冰面。利用你的经验——如果镐打到石头上或者空心冰上，就不要再在相同地方打镐了，不然就会越来越糟。
测试入镐点——可以通过让冰镐承受一半体重的方法来测试冰镐入点的结实程度，但同时要做好可能会冲坠的准备。有经验的攀冰者能够通过“感觉”来评估大部分入镐点的好坏，并能根据以往评估的经验对现在的入镐点充满自信，一经打入便可信赖。如果你对入镐点并不确信，或对你自己的评估不是很自信的话，那就可以通过下拉受力的方法测试每个入镐点，尤其是在先锋的时候。测试后，你就可以更相信它了。
忘记再继续——当你对入镐点感到满意并充满信任的时候，你就需要忘记入镐点的问题了，然后集中精神到下一个入镐点或移动到现在稳固的地方。
因此，当你打镐时，要记住这个顺序：观察、打镐、测试、相信、移动。

BELOW: Technique Fault Finding - 6 Classic Mistakes6个常见的技术错误

Observed Fault: Chicken winging
Description of Fault:
Climber moves up to far on tools placed to far out to either side.Corrective Action:
Body positioning and tool placements in relation to centre of mass. Check ice tools are placed in target area above centre of mass and check climber not moving up too far on placements.
错误一：架胳膊错误描述：攀冰者上的位置过高，冰镐入冰位置离身体太远正确做法：身体姿势和冰镐打入位置与重心有关。将镐打入重心上方的目标范围，攀冰者不要上得太高。

Observed Fault: Barn dooringDescription of Fault:
Tool placement and crampon placement fails causing climber to swing away from the ice like a door on it's hinges.Corrective Action:
Body positioning and tool placements in relation to centre of mass. Emphasise bridging position at end of movement sequence.
错误二：开门错误描述：错误的冰镐点和冰爪点导致攀冰者像冰壁外侧摇摆，就像门在折页上摆动一样。正确做法：身体姿势和冰镐打入位置与重心有关。强调移动后回归跨立姿势站好。
Observed Fault: Ice picks glancing or bouncing of the iceDescription of Fault:
When placing tools they tend to bounce or glance of the ice as though hitting concrete.Corrective Action:
Poor ice tool swing – check technique for: Wrist flick at end of swing. Tool/wrist/elbow/shoulder in straight line when swinging ice tool. Body positioning when placing tool – hip roll. If wearing leashes check fitting of leash length.
错误三：打镐弹出
错误描述：打镐时冰镐擦冰或弹出，好像打在水泥上一样。正确做法：挥镐有问题——检查挥镐技巧：挥镐最后要抖腕。挥镐时，冰镐、手腕、手肘、肩膀要在一条直线上。挥镐时身体的姿势——臀部是否内旋。如果使用了腕带，检查一下腕带是否合适或是否太长。
Observed Fault: Forearms quickly becoming pumpedDescription of Fault:
Climber complains arms become pumped very quickly regardless of angle of the ice i.e. steepness.Corrective Action:
Climber over-gripping on tools: focus on relaxing grip after placing tools. Shake-out often. If wearing leashes check fitting of leash around wrist.

错误四：前臂酸胀
错误描述：无论冰壁是否陡峭，攀冰者都抱怨胳膊很快就变得酸胀。正确做法：攀冰者过度抓握冰镐：注意打镐后要放松抓握。经常甩动胳膊。如果使用了腕带，检查手腕上的部分是否合适。

Observed Fault: Crampon points shearing outDescription of Fault:
Crampon points shear out as climber moves up or places tools.Corrective Action:
Climber's heels too high. This can be caused by: Over-stretching to place ice tools. Legs very straight (climber will also complain of sore calves). Incorrect body positioning.
错误五：冰爪脱出
错误描述：当攀冰者向上攀爬或打镐的时候，冰爪从踩点脱出。正确做法：攀冰者的脚跟过高。这可能有是由以下原因造成的：过度拉长身体打镐。腿太直（攀冰者也抱怨小腿酸痛）。错误的体位。
Observed Fault: Crampon points not penetrating the iceDescription of Fault:
Crampon points appear to not penetrate the ice or bounce of the ice whilst being placed.Corrective Action:
Climber's heels too high when kicking points in. Emphasise dropping heels slightly and swinging kick hinging on knee.错误六：冰爪齿未入冰
错误描述：踢踩冰爪的时候冰爪齿未入冰或弹出。正确做法：踢冰时攀冰者的脚跟过高。注意略微沉脚跟，以膝为轴摆动小腿踢冰。
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发布于 2018-11-08 15:45:49