如何攀爬平板岩壁

若尘_7080：太适合我看了 哈哈
平衡面是硬伤啊 发布于 2018-11-12 10:07:02

寂落落：感谢分享，希望芽总翻点更多的干货。么么哒 发布于 2018-11-11 23:49:16

wy5277：芽子总真是翻译达人，例行吹捧 发布于 2018-11-11 23:47:55

dol528phin：

对每个新人来说，face简直就是噩梦，不相信自己的脚法，过分依赖手点，害怕搓脸，都是切切实实阻挡新人们喜爱大光板的的理由。第一次与slab正面交锋是在白河结组“70年代”，当时居然都产生了恨不能用牙咬住岩壁的感觉；在随后的“New Beginner”结组中，一段5.2的slab横移更是将我的自信心彻底粉碎。直到爬过了“三不”，脚法才略有进步，心中才添了一丝欣喜。因此在看到这篇文章时，第一个冲动就是将它翻译出来，希望有机会攀爬大光板岩壁的童鞋们读着受用，通过练习，渐渐爱上大光板。（转载请与我联系）
~~~敬请阅读~~~

Instant Expert: Friction Slabs (With Tips From Hazel Findlay)
Slabtastic! Fear no runout, hold-free friction slab with this comprehensive playbook
By Julie Ellison


马上教会你如何攀爬平板岩壁（内含Hazel Findlay的小贴士）
平板攀爬技巧！保护点远、无手点，不再怕！
翻译 芽子



In an odd way, friction slabs are like wide cracks: Hate ’em all you want, but you can’t climb some of the most classic trad routes without working through them. It’s common to find slab sections leading into and out of perfect cracks in places like Yosemite and Lumpy Ridge, Colorado. They’re characterized by a low angle (between roughly 65° and 80°) and a dearth of holds (think: micro-divots, bumps, edges, dishes, and nubbins ). There’s nothing to pull down on, so you must employ a set of techniques unique to these features (or lack thereof).

奇怪的是，攀登具有摩擦力的大平板岩壁与攀登宽裂缝很相似：你特别讨厌他们，但在攀登一些经典的传统路线时，不得不与它们狭路相逢。你经常会发现，在y悠胜美地和科罗拉多的lumpy一带，在通往完美裂缝的途中总有一段平板岩壁的攀登。他们共同的特点都是，低角度（角度大约在65度到85度之间）没手点（脑补一下：超级小的草皮、小突起、小楞、小凹槽和小片片）。没什么可以向下借力的地方，所以你必须运用一系列独特的技巧才能搞定平板岩壁（否者就被平板岩壁搞定了）。

Don’t pull down
Keep arms soft, elbows slightly bent, fingers out to the sides, and thumbs up, using your digits to press against the rock.

Butt out!
This puts your weight over your feet, which increases pressure (and thus friction) on the rock. This will make you feel more secure.

Believe in your feet
Trust your foot and put more weight on it. This will make invisible holds usable.

Smear
With heels down and toes bending upward, paste the balls of your feet and as much rubber on the rock as possible. Don’t edge—this decreases the amount of rubber on rock, thereby reducing grip.

Don’t get fancy
Reaching way up, high-steps, mantels, and crimping those barely there holds pulls your body into the rock and reduces the weight on your feet.

Breathe deeply
Move deliberately and continuously.

不要向下拉
保持手臂放松，臂肘微弯，拇指向上，其他手指朝外，手指按住岩壁。

屁股外撅！
这样做可以使你的重心都落在双脚上，增加对岩壁的压力（进而增加摩擦）。使你感觉到更加安全。

相信你的脚
相信你的脚，把更多的重量落在脚上。这样就可以用到很多看不见的脚点。

碾脚
脚跟下沉，脚趾上翘，将脚的球状部位和尽可能多的胶底黏在岩壁上。不要用使用内侧踩点的脚法--这样会减少与岩壁接触的胶底面积，从而减少支撑。

不要耍花样
向上够，起高脚，反撑和通过指压那些几乎不算手点的点把自己拉向岩壁等技巧，都会减少落在脚上的重量。

深呼吸
连续、谨慎地上移。

Biggest Dangers—and How to Avoid Them

Pumped Calves
Legs are the only things moving you up, so they’ll pump out just like your arms do. Sink your heels way down to rest. This stretches overworked muscles and increases rubber-rock contact. If a single hold is good, switch your feet and rest each in turn

Limited Pro
Welcome to runout country: No cracks or fissures means you won’t get gear in, and bolts are usually well-spaced. Prepare mentally and place solid gear whenever you can. If there’s a traverse, place pro to catch your direction of fall.

Heinous Falls
This is where the term “cheese grating” comes from. If you do fall, maintain your body position and slide down with your feet still touching the rock. Gently pat the wall every few seconds to stay upright, but don’t let your hands slide down the rock.

Losing Momentum
One secret is just to keep moving. This prevents getting stuck in a position that feels impossible to move from, and it keeps your mind calm and focused.

攀爬平板岩壁的最大危险及如何避免

小腿酸胀
借助腿才能向上攀登，所以它们就像胳膊一样也会酸胀。将你的脚跟下沉让腿得以休息。这样做可以拉伸过度疲劳的肌肉，同时可以增加胶底与岩壁的接触面。如果有一个很好的脚点，那就在此轮流换脚进行休息。

有限的保护点
欢迎来到保护点之间距离超长的线路：没有裂缝或裂纹就意味着你无法放置保护，挂片之间的距离也经常很远。思想上要做好准备，在能放置保护点的时候要放入保护。如果有横移，那就要通过放置保护来引导你坠落的方向。

可恶的冲坠
这就是“插奶酪碎”一词的由来。如果你冲坠了，保持你的姿势，双脚紧贴岩壁下滑。隔几秒就轻拍岩壁以保持身体正直，但不要把手掌贴在岩壁上滑下来。

失去动力
一个秘诀就是不停地向上攀爬。这样可以防止你停滞在某一个觉得无法移动的姿势上，同时也要保持冷静和专注。

Get PSYCHED on Slabs (with Hazel Findlay)

Positive self-talk
"Before climbing, I tell myself that I’m good at slab climbing and that I most likely won’t fall. I follow that with saying that I’m quite experienced at falling down slabs, so should I take a big fall, I will be OK. Once I start climbing, I often tell myself that my shoes work and that my feet won’t slip. I say over and over in my mind: It will stick. It will stick."

Don’t think, just move
"I try really hard not to overthink what I’m doing. One of the best things about slab climbing is the fluidity of the movement; success is usually found from being relaxed and simply climbing instead of over-analyzing every move. If you get stuck in a particular position, you’ll have to get out of it at some point. Embrace this, decide what to do, and move with confidence into the next position. Don’t doubt yourself or second-guess."

Shoes make a difference
"Two important things are body position (the foot is weighted in the right direction) and confidence (the foot is weighted enough). If you believe your foot will stick, then it most likely will. The opposite is also true. Probably the most important thing when slab climbing are the rock shoes you wear and how they fit. (Flat, flexible, and comfortable shoes are best.)"


Gain confidence through experience
"If you aren’t an experienced slab climber and the route is dangerous—don’t even try it. Gain experience on safer territory; it might still be a bit scary, but at least you’ll be safe. Confidence is an integral part of slab climbing, and if you don’t have any, then you’re in trouble. Gain confidence through experience, and you’ll start to love slab climbing."


跃跃欲试大平板（Hazel Findlay的建议）
进行正面自语
”在开始攀岩之前，我都跟自己说我很擅长爬平板，而且基本不会冲坠。接着我还会对自己说，我对平板上发生的冲坠有着很丰富的经验，所以即便我发生了长距离冲坠，也不会有什么问题。我经常告诉自己，我的鞋子很给力，脚也不会打滑。我在心里不断地重复着：黏得住，黏得住。“

不要多想，只管前进
“我很努力地试着不去多想自己在干什么。在进行平板攀登时，最管用的方法就是流畅地攀爬；你会发现，成功通常来自于放松和单纯地攀爬，而不是多余地对每一步都进行分析。如果你在某一个地方卡住了，那你就必须尽快摆脱这种状态。要笃信这一点，充满信心地决定和进行接下来的攀爬。不要怀疑你自己，也不要推测想像什么。”

鞋子大不同
攀爬平板岩壁的两个重要事情就是动作（重心落在脚的正确方向上）和自信（落在脚上的重量足够大）。如果你相信你的脚能够黏得住，那么它也许就黏得住。但反过来，也同样奏效。此外，另一个重要的事情就是你穿的岩鞋和这双岩鞋是不是跟脚（平底、易弯、舒适的攀岩鞋是最合适不过的了）。”

通过实践获得自信
“如果你不是一名很有经验的平板岩壁攀岩者，而且路线也比较危险——那就试也不要去试。要在较为安全的岩壁获得经验；但是即便这样，也会有点害怕，但至少你是安全的。自信是进行平板岩壁攀爬的主要部分，如果没有什么自信，你就会陷入困境。通过实践获得自信，你就会开始喜爱攀爬平板岩壁了。”






34099898
发布于 2018-11-11 23:45:51

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